GLASSES
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Fort he lenses we will mix Deep Red SC-35 with Violet Inktense SC-82 as base color so we get a dark color that will serve as shadow for red. For the stripe holding the glasses we’ll use Sunset Purple SC-33.
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We continue illuminating giving several layers of the mix of Deep Red SC-35, Inktense Violet SC-82 and Red Antares SC-37 to only apply Antares Red alone, the light should reach almost half the área and should have a crescent moon shape, thus we simulate the crossing of light through the glass. Fort he stripe we mix Sunset Purple SC-33 with a little White SC-01.
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To finish the lenses we will make an extreme highlight toward the edge in two steps, the first will be mixing Antares Red SC-37 and White SC-01 until a light pink and apply it on the lower edge of the lens slightly inclined. As a second step apply White SC-01 directly with a crescent moon shape in the upper part slightly tilted to the opposite side of the bottom and making two dots below simulating possible spotlights who set the miniature, also paint a dot on the lower half moon to manage to get that “magnifying effect” we wanted to achieve.
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Once the lenses are done we will have to finish painting the frame of the glasses applying a base color of Brown Leather SC-31 mixed with Sahara Yellow SC-11.
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Illuminate the golden color of the frame with a highlight of Sahara yellow SC-11 directly and marking light points with Tenere Yellow SC-10.
MECHANICAL ARM
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For the copper part we will use Sharpnel Red SFG-36 over a layer of Arbuckles Brown SFG-34 and for golden parts the base color will be Arbuckles Brown SFG-34 directly.
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The first highlight will be made by applying Chink Orange SFG-37 and for the golden parts first with a mixture of Arbuckles Brown SFG-34 and Cokum Copper SFG-38 and then directly Cokum Copper SFG-38.
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As second highlight we will use a mix of Chink Orange SFG-37, Peanut Butter SFG-39 and Hykey Yellow SFG-41 the percentages being 25%, 25% and 50% respectively to make a lighten orange color coherent with the brass parts and for golden ones we will use Peanut butter SFG-39 in bronze areas and Sahara Yellow SC-11 for gold ones.
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We continue to lighten the color both in the copper parts and the gold ones, outlining and giving light points and simulating scratches with Hykey Yellow SFG-41 directly.
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Finally to tone and give more grace to metals use a stippling movement on joints and dark places with Adriatic Blue SC-15 directly for the copper parts and fairly mild glazes with Boreal Green SC-42 into the shadow zone for the gold ones.
BODY
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As basecoats we use Deep Blue SC-55 mixed with Inktense Violet SC 82 for the suit and Deep Red SC-35 mixed with Inktense Violet SC-82 also for the shirt, it doesn’t need to be uniformly because it will be the maximum shade.
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As first highlight we will apply uniformly Deep Blue SC-55 for the suit and Deep Red SC-35 mixed with a bit of Antares Red SC-37 for the shirt.
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Start defining the areas of light both in the suit and the shirt mixing Deep Blue SC-55 with Blue Adriatic SC-15 for the suit and applying it towards the light area and Antares Red SC-37 for the shirt.
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We will define the lights further with Adriatic Blue SC-15 remarking more the light and outlining areas like the flaps on the suit and we will outline the shirt with Antares Red SC-37.
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We finish the maximum highlights creating an effect of artificial brightness mixing Adriatic Blue SC-15 with White SC-01 applied slightly in the areas of light and using it to outline the suit. For the shirt the lighten up will be done by mixing Antares Red SC-37 with Sun Yellow SC-40 so red does not lose intensity and White-01. We outline the edges of the shirt with that mixture.